travel

Ever since arriving in New Zealand I’ve been developing this chip on my shoulder about the internet. When I first arrived I had been freelancing, which meant spending a lot of time out of the house working at coffee shops and libraries.

Not in New Zealand.

I quickly discovered coffee shops here don’t have free wifi, but the general internet is total crap. Not only slow, but expensive. And dysfunctional anywhere outside cities. And, oh, wait, LIMITED.

What is limited internet?

At the risk of sounding like a first-world whiner (which, let’s face it, the majority of this post is going to be just that), I had no idea what limited broadband meant until moving here.

Essentially it means you can only pay for and use a certain amount of data. Activities like checking email don’t eat much. Updating software, using Skype, watching YouTube videos, uploading photos…. those do.

In New Zealand, that data costs a lot. For $200/month living with five people we received 20GB of data each. In New York, my roommate and I paid $22 total for unlimited internet. You do the math.

Broadband Issues Bad for New Zealand’s Economy

I’m currently working for a start-up in a young industry. I meet a lot of professionals and entrepreneurs who are invested in New Zealand’s growth as part of the global economy. Over the past year I’ve been to many conferences on that very topic – a major event at the University of Auckland Business School, a digital conference run by MSN, a program hosted by Google…

Want to know what all these events had in common?

None of them had wifi.

Someone please explain how you can attend a conference for digital professionals about the growth of New Zealand’s international economy AND NOT HAVE THE FUCKING INTERNET.

But wait! It gets better…

Enter: Stephen Fry

Stephen Fry, master of all that is humorous and national treasure of England, is in New Zealand. And I was giddy with joy when my 15-month-long annoyances were justified when I saw this tweet:

The full story is, apparently, Fry was doing lots of “high-bandwidth activities” like uploading photos/videos. He went over the limit and Telecom slowed his speed to dial-up, which is what happens here if you exceed your limit.

(As someone who does this every month, I can assure you it’s quite the treat.)

What shocked me though were the tweets following Fry’s rant. New Zealanders are a defensive bunch and even if everyone here hates the limits, there was no way in hell they would allow an outsider to insult their country.

One guy tweeted that, well, “maybe internet is slow here but at least it stops people from tweeting too much” (!). Another called Fry an asshole. And, of course, many brought out The Earthquake Card, saying Kiwis who have internet “should be thankful for what they have.”

NZ publications and even the damn government is responding to this issue all wrong. They’re responding as if Fry has had an out-of-the-ordinary experience. I can assure you, he hasn’t. Fry’s issue is representative of a bigger problem in New Zealand.

Dear NZ, You’re 10 Years Behind. Again.

Fry later posted a series of tweets that have made me fall in love with him even more. He said (edited for clarity), “Comcast-style throttling is disastrous for the economy. For visitors and for everyone. It won’t stop illegal torrenting and makes as much sense as closing a lane of traffic because there’s congestion. Yes, Kiwi Land is remote, but if Avatar can be made here and they want to keep its reputation for being the loveable, easy-going, outdoorsy yet tech savvy place it is, then pressure @telecomNZ into offering better packages. Kiwis travel. They know 20MB is routine in Europe and the UK is rolling out ultra fast fibre-optic. Come on, New Zealand, you’re world champions at rugby and film-making. Pressure the providers to stop being a digital embarrassment.”

This has nothing to do with Fry going over the data cap. Or choosing the wrong provider. There is no other provider. There are no real competitors to Telecom. It’s called a monopoly. And it’s not okay.

And, to clarify, most first world countries don’t have data caps. As per usual, New Zealand is about ten years behind. In the words of one commenter, its policies are “primitive.” One traveler even said that as much as he loved it here, the broadband limitations means he “could never work or live here permanently.”

So BRAVO, Stephen Fry. B-R-A-V-O.

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The Great New Zealand Road Trip

by Marian Schembari on January 9, 2012

The brilliant thing about New Zealand is that around Christmas, everything shuts down. The majority of offices close for around two weeks, meaning I had a hugely long holiday and nothing to do.

Enter standbycars.com. I’ve been on their database since Australia but the timing had never been right. They’re a company that hooks you up with campervans that need “relocating”. In New Zealand, most people pick up vans in Auckland and drive them down south. But someone needs to drive them back up again!

Enter me.

For a grand total of $25 I was able to rent a campervan for four days and drive it back to Auckland from Christchurch.

And I can honestly say, without exaggeration, it’s the best thing I’ve ever done in my life.

The Road Trip

On January 1st I flew down to Christchurch to spend a few days being a tourist. I figured there must be a few things open since the quake. Not so much. But my roommate Alana hooked me up with a friend who let me crash at his place and was the best tour guide a girl could ask for.

We went to the zoo, the botanical gardens, watched bestmovieofalltime Anchorman, toured the abandoned CBD and, like a true tourist, experienced not one, not two, but THREE earthquakes. It was pretty terrifying to wake up at 1am to your entire world shaking, but we were safe on our side of town and (please don’t hate me), there was a little bit of a rush from experiencing such absolute power of nature.

I imagine Christchurch was quite a beautiful city before the earthquakes. Tons of greenery and old buildings and English activities like punting, all which make my heart flutter.

So seeing central Christchurch in ruins was an eye-opener. I’ve been to ghost towns before in Middle America, but to see what was such a vibrant city only a year ago completely shut down, boarded up and with weeds growing through the roads was very apocalyptic. Very end of days.

But still, locals kept a sense of humor about the situation, which is one of the things I love most about New Zealand. Like this port-a-loo decorated for New Year on a damaged residential street.

After two days in Chch I was chauffeured to the campervan pick up location to start my next big adventure. I had four days to get the van (who I christened “Jill”) to Auckland. It’s around 1200km and sixteen hours of driving.

After asking every Kiwi I know where to go and what to do, I settled on hiking in Hanmer Springs, whale watching in Kaikoura, being cultural in Nelson, catching the ferry in Picton, eating good food in Wellington and walking the lake in Taupo.

It was the driving I enjoyed most. New Zealand’s terrain is so incredibly diverse and I saw everything from fields of lavender to snow-capped mountains to vineyards to volcanic landscapes. I kept pulling the car over every hundred miles just to stare in awe. At one point I actually started laughing to myself because I couldn’t fully believe how beautiful it was.

It went from this….

To this….

To this…

To this…

I mean, COME ON. These are real places! Like, IN THE WORLD.

I have never in my life felt so lucky. I mean, not only did I get to see all this beauty, but I get to live here. And I made myself a promise that from now on I need to make more of an effort to explore outside Auckland. This country is incredible. How exactly did it take me 13 months to realize this?

Me, Myself & I

In those four days I was entirely alone, talking only to waiters and the people behind the desk at holiday parks. I did start talking to myself around day three but that’s another thing I learned during those four days: I am awesome company.

I’ve always loved being alone. I need Marian Time every day and I travel solo more frequently than with company. But never have I been SO alone. No couchsurfing, no hostels, no tourist attractions. Just me, the road and the Dixie Chicks on repeat.

And I loved it. More than I’ve loved anything. I loved that I could see a beautiful river on the side of the road, park the car and dive in. I loved that I was originally going to head to Napier but changed course at a fork in the road to instead drive through Tongariro National Park. I loved that when Jill had car issues I handled it. And when before I’d never understood how a campervan actually worked, I was suddenly plugging in to power sites and emptying water tanks in style.

Basically, call your friendly local campervan company and see if they need anything relocated. Or just come to New Zealand. Or spend tomorrow entirely alone. Whatever works for you. But I gotta say, this trip? Totally did it for me.

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Happy 2012! Let’s Celebrate a Year in Pictures

by Marian Schembari on December 30, 2011

I fear I’m beginning to get to the age where time constantly feels like it’s flying. How have I been living in New Zealand for over a year? How is it possible I graduated college two years ago? Can someone remind me how exactly my five-year high school reunion has not only come, but completely gone? It’s overwhelming.

That said, this year hasn’t been exactly been – how shall we say – uneventful. Let’s take a look back, shall we?

January

Beach! Sun! New Zealand Summer! New website design. New clients. Decided I might want a “real” job.

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February

New friends. Interviewed on national TV. Coworking spaces. Job interviews. American Meetup group. Apparently New Zealand has a basketball team. Oh, and earthquake.

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March

Ohgodnomoreinterviewsplease. Old roomie moves over from London. Pasifika Festival. Find out Kiwis put ice cream in iced coffee. It’s delicious.

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April

Move into my first house on a street called Cardigan. We host a high tea. I visit an American store in Bumblefuck, Auckland and stock up on Easy Mac and canned pumpkin.

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May

Work part time at a cupcake shop. Definitely top 5 jobs I’ve ever had. Turn 24. Land a “real” job. It’s awesome. Definitely in the top 5…

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June

Mom visits New Zealand! Visit Wellington. Sing the National Anthem (the US one, that is) in front of lots of Kiwis.

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July

Experience the most beautiful beach in all the world. Mini north of the North Island road trip. Worst flu of my life.

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August

Major escape (aka “meltdown”). Leave Auckland. Backpack and couchsurf solo through Australia.

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September

More travel. More couchsurfing. Plant trees in Queenstown with some hippies.

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October

Return to Auckland. Find a new house, new friends, new life. Rugby World Cup! Listen to Back in Black 53 million times.

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November

Go rollerskating for first time. Explore Waiheke. Drink wine. Hike. Big Fat American Thanksgiving. Move house (again). This time get it right. Lots and lots of yoga.

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December

Windsurfing! Summer in New Zealand! Not so much sun but we’re just gonna go with it! Christmas. 2 weeks holiday. Road trip starting January 1, 2012…

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Phew! Holy monkey. You HAVE to do this exercise. Just go through your year, your photographs, your blog and look at how freaking much you accomplished. I’m actually pretty impressed with myself. And finally starting to look forward to what 2012 will bring.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

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Settling Myself Challenges for Life Back in New Zealand

by Marian Schembari on November 29, 2011

My college roommate, BFF and soulmate, Desi, and I are the same person. We often say the same sentences at the same time, have similar dreams and respond to each other almost as if we were talking to ourselves.

Unfortunately, Desi and I rarely see each other as she’s in the States and I’m, well, not. Ever. It may have been almost a year and a half since we’ve seen each other in person, but we’re the kind of friends who have been known to Skype daily and send each other love emails.

A few weeks ago Desi and I had a very long chat about our collective quarterlife crisis as we’ve found ourselves in eerily similar situations; in physical places we never thought we’d be, without people we always thought we’d be with.

So we’ve set ourselves goals – things we want to accomplish in the next year while also holding each other accountable. Since we both have blogs, we’re publishing said goals publicly in the hopes that you might keep us accountable too.

That, and everyone loves a good challenge and as an attempt to write more about what I want to write about, you’re going to have to bear with me on the personal posts.

So here they are:

  • See the top tourist attractions in Auckland and greater NZ
  • Skydive
  • Take a creative class (cooking/photography/whatever)
  • Make new friends from all over the world
  • Hike at least twice per month and do at least one multi-day hike
  • Say yes to five things I’d never say yes to
  • Get more involved in the Auckland couchsurfing community
  • Lose the last 10 pounds I’ve been clinging to since college (already 20lbs down from August!)

Progress so far has included taking hot yoga three times per week (officially obsessed), going to the weekly Spanish exchange nights with couchsurfing, making friends with guy from Spain and girl from the UK and booking a tour of Milford Sound with my dad in February.

I’ve also tacked on two weekly challenges for myself:

1. Every week have dinner/coffee/drinks with someone I’ve never met before. I can meet them through friends of friends, Twitter, couchsurfing, other blogs, whatever.

2. Every week do something I’ve never done before. On my list right now are ride a motorcycle (as a passenger), jump off something high, take a class, write a nice note to a complete stranger…

These last two are the challenges I need your hep with. Any ideas for 52 “new” things I could do would be hugely appreciated… I need inspiration for this one! And if you know anyone in Auckland I should meet on a blind friend date (à la MWF Seeking BFF), hook us up!

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Happy Thanksgiving!

by Marian Schembari on November 24, 2011

I doubt any of you are actually reading blogs on this awesome holiday, but if you are, Happy Turkey Day!

Yesterday (we’re a day ahead in New Zealand) I made my office go around the table and say what they’re thankful for while eating homemade pumpkin pie and drinking cranberry cider.

Thanks to my mother, a Thanksgiving can’t go by without making a list of the things I’m grateful for this year:

  • The opportunity to live in a country most of my friends and family have never even dreamed of visiting.
  • My incredible job.
  • My beautiful, wonderful friends. Both old and new.
  • My brothers. We don’t speak as often as I’d like, but they are the most clever, funny, intelligent boys on the planet.
  • My parents, who both drive me up a wall and make me want to desperately jump on a plane just to see them.
  • Hot yoga. Without which I would probably be insane.
  • Good music.
  • The New Zealand sunshine.
  • Knowing enough Americans to actually celebrate Thanksgiving 8,820 miles from home.
  • Flat whites. ‘Nough said.
  • Living so close to epic scenery and hundreds of isolated beaches.
  • Group deal sites. No joke, they make up my entire social life and prompt me to do things like windsurfing and wine tasting.
  • This blog, which continues to introduce me to my favorite people, prompt amazing conversations and grows daily into something I’m proud of.
  • Libby’s canned pumpkin. I can’t open it without being hit with that smell. You know the one. The one that immediately transports me back to my family’s kitchen on Thanksgiving morning.

Hope you all have a wonderful day!

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